Traditional Chinese Clothing

The Traditional Chinese Clothing,or literally "Clothing of the Han people",refers to the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, the predominant ethnic group of China. From the reign of the legendary Yellow Emperor(2717 BC-2599 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty ( 1368-1644), the Traditional Chinese Clothing dominated the Han Chinese fashion world for a period of over four thousand years. The Traditional Chinese Clothing disappeared after the invasion of the Manchus in the 17th century, under whose reign the Han Chinese were forced to adopt the Manchu hairstyle( the pigtall) and the Manchu-style clothing. After the collapse of the Qing Dynasty in 1912, the Manchu dress and the pigtall gave way to the western-style dress.

The basic style of the Traditional Chinese Clothing was established in the Zhou Dynasty ( 1046 BC-256 BC), including the Shenyi style, a full-length, one-piece rote which links the Yi and Shang together to wrap up the body; the Yi(the upper grament) and Shang( the skirt ) style. Main patterns include the diagonally crossed collar,the left lapel over the right, tight upper garment with loose sleeves, tying with sash in place of buttons, and the lower garment in the shape of an apron. Ornaments like tassels and jade pendants are worn hanging from the sash, to be completed with hats for men and hairpieces for women.

The Traditional Chinese Clothing boasts a wide and profound influence. Many traditional costurnes of Asian countries, such as the kimono in Japan and Korean traditional dress, are derived from the Traditional Chinese Clothing and have preserved over centuries the pre-Manchu style of the Traditional Chinese Clothing. In recent years, there has been a revival of Hanfu as a Chinese national costume in China. The Traditional Chinese Clothing can be seen in some important worship, commemoration and traditional festivals in modern society. Although Qipao and Tangzhuang are usually seen as traditional Chinese clothing, they are not regarded as the national costume by advocates of revival of the Traditional Chinese Clothing.since they are relatively recent clothing styles. Hence Qipao and Tangzhuang cannot represent the entire history of Chinese clothing.

Tangzhuang

Literally, Tangzhuang means the traditonal outfit of the Han people in the Tang Dynasty. It is one of the Chinese traditional clothing. The general features include cross collars, the left lapel over the right, and a belt to tie instead of buttons. The major styles include the classic half-sleeved jacket shirts with full skirts, turbans, loose-sleeved shirts, and round-collared robes. The distinctive low-cut gowns with high waist-band for women were luxuriant, loose, and more revealing, a reflection in the fashion world of the open-minded atmosphere, liberal politics, prosperous economy and frequent cultural exchange of the time.

Tangzhuang in a modern sense refers to the Chinese outfit that bears no relationship with the clothes of the Tang Dynasty. Modern Tangzhuang evolved from Magua, the riding jacket of the Manchu horsemen. Its basic features include standing collars, raglan sleeves, symmetrical front opening, and knotted buttons. Unlike the traditional 2D"flat-cutting",which tends to produce a baggy and loose-fitting look, mordern Tangzhuang is more influenced by the 3D"solid-cutting" used in Europe. Sometimes shoulder pads are used in order to achieve a stronger sihouette. In choice of colors, red and blue are the much preferred. Traditional fabric such as brocaded silk is used and some are heavily embroidered with auspicious patterns.

The word"Tangzhuang" was initially used by overseas Chinese. Because of the high reputation of the Tang Dynasty. Chinese people are called"Tang People" by foreigners and the overseas Chinese community or the Chinatown called "Tang people's Community", and hence their costume "Tangzhuang". This word was popularized in 2001, when the heads of states made their appearance at the APEC summit in Shanghai, all dress in Tangzhuang. The impressive scene gained Tangzhuang a widespread popularity ever since. It is still a favorable choice for the Chinese people to wear for traditional Chinese festivals or wedding ceremonies.

The Origin Qipao

Qipao, a traditional dress for females in China, is reputed as one of the paragons of traditional Chinese costumes and an irreplaceable cultural heritage in the fashion world. Though debated by experts about the exact time of its occurrence, it is generally believed that Qipao originated from a type of Manchurian female garment in the Qing Dynasty(1636-1912). It evolved and was quickly popularized during the Republican Period. Under the influence of fashionable high-class courtesans,celebrities in Shanghai and even politicians of the time,it reached its heyday in the 1930s and 1940s.

Qipao has gone through constant changes. The original Qipao was loose-fitting and puritanical enough to conceal the figures of the women's body. Modern Qipao is tight-fitting ,accentuating the female shape. Qipao mainly features a stand-up collar, Chinese knotted buttons, the left lapel over the right, a tight-fitting waist, and hemmed slits on both sides. It is usually made from satin, brocade,silk, or cotton. Some are embroidered with exquisite patterns. Two major styles and the Beijing style. The former, absorbing western elements of design and tailoring, leads the fashion trend.

It is generally accepted by scholars that the craze for Qipao in the Republican Period is a natural result of the rise of feminism and women's pursuit of intellectual freedom. Women's wear in former Dynasties was a two-piece garment and one-piece garment was exclusively worn by men. Wearing Qipao, which is basically a one-piece robe, carries a symbolic sense of promoting gender equality. Later on , the priority of Qipao shifted from a political expression to aesthetic and ornamental emphasis. It was chosen as the Republic of China's mandarin gown in 1929. Since the reform and opening-up policy was adopted in China,Qipao has been designated as the formal attire for female diplomates in foreign affairs activities and international conferences. It usually enjoys priority of the uniform in service industy and a dress for brides to change into for the tea ceremony at their wnddings.